Steakhouse Terra Firma is worth its salt

I first went to Terra Firma in its old location, the Al Badia Golf Club. There it had a great balcony, stunning views over the greens and good food. But its far flung location meant all that wasn’t enough of a draw, so it’s moved down the road to the InterContinental, and what a great move that was. The steaks are as perfectly cooked as ever, but there’s a less formal feel than there was in the original, and that’s a good thing. Take a seat in the outdoor terrace if you can — I went on what had been a humid evening at the end of May, but somehow the restaurant, tucked at the back of the hotel, was shielded from the worst of the heat. That meant I was able to tuck into a beef and cheese dish of gargantuan proportions, but not before I treated myself to a grilled fish starter: a lovely choice for a summer’s evening is the mackerel (Dh80), perched on a sweetcorn saute. The fish is moist and crisp-skinned — and good for you. Over on my dining partner’s side of the table, another seafood starter, a crab cocktail (Dh140), wasn’t as successful. Served in a classic martini glass, it was sweet and ocean-fresh but lacked punch and volume. Volume was not to be an issue with my main course, a plateful of beef cheeks (Dh25) served with mashed potato, a meaty sauce and covered in melted Comte cheese. This was the high-end version of a beef-cheese-potato blowout you’d probably normally find somewhere like Texas Roadhouse. It was rich — beef cheeks are a slow-cooking piece of meat, which cooks down to gelatinous tenderness, similar to oxtail. The cheese wasn’t your average cheddar: Comte is nutty and complex (try it instead of gruyere next time you’re cooking) while the sauce was a glossy meat reduction. Let’s just say it’s not summer eating, but Terra Firma likes to set challenges (such as the 2 kilogramme tomahawk steak). A steak had to be on the table, of course, and we chose to give sirloin (Dh350) a chance to stand out among the usual tenderloins and ribeyes. The piece (from a wagyu cow) held its own, crusty on the outside and intensely juicy within. Terra Firma offers a choice of charcoal grilling or a regular broiler, and if you’re looking for flavour, the former is your best option. The restaurant also does a nice sideline in salts. Alongside your steak come seven cellars of chunky, colourful salt ready to be ground over your dish. According to our waiter on the night, each has it’s own characteristics. I’d recommend the smoked Norwegan rock salt and the flaky French fleur du sel sea salt. Salt gives life flavour, but dessert makes life worth living, right? Don’t miss the desserts — the slab of creamy chocolate cake comes with a palate-cleansing pear sorbet and caramel-soaked nuts, while the mango cream is a lighter, more fragrant option. Terra Firma does a nice job of balancing steakhouse classics with chic, modern style, while thankfully never succumbing to modern trickery like foams and such. Fact Box: Terra Firma Where: InterContinental Dubai Festival City Call 04-7011111 Must-haves: Grilled mackerel; beef cheeks, sirloin steak, chocolate brownie. Atmosphere: Serious carnivores, apply within. Decor: Curvy and contemporary.