New York Fashion Week: collections of Ralph Lauren

A model wears a creation from the Ralph Lauren spring/summer 2012 collection The cowboy-themed wedding of David Lauren (son of Ralph) to Lauren Bush (niece of George W) at the groom's family's1400-acre ranch this month presented two intriguing questions.The first was quickly answered: the bride has understandably baulked at Lauren Lauren, so will be known as Lauren Bush-Lauren.
The second - which of the newly-united families is the most influential - seems at first to be a no-brainer. For two Presidents in one family represents a great deal of influence. Yet, as he showed at his latest collection, in many ways Ralph Lauren is probably more significant to more people around the world than a ranch rustling with Bushes. His polo-player emblazoned basics are beloved of a millions-strong global constituency that includes English rugby fans and (to the company's understandable discomfort) Mexican drug-runners. And at the top of his business - his high fashion collections for men and women - he has for decades had the knack of presenting collections that signal sophisticated aspiration, and set his cash-tills alight.
Lauren often trades on instantly-recognisable Americana - cowboys (as at that wedding), Wall Street, or pioneers - and yesterday's collection returned to another favourite idealised theme. The Jazz Age was America before its first great financial fall, when the female stereotypes were vampish flappers in beaded gowns or, more demurely, a ladylike cloche hats worn with girlish, boxy pleated dresses. All were here, in off-white ivory and powdery blue, pink, and green pastels, accessorised with loops of pearl. One model used the hand not gripping her crochet clutch bag to twirl rose-printed gauze of her dress as she span for the cameras.
There was a nod to his formative Great Gatsby connection - Lauren designed the clothes for the Robert Redford film - in a wide-shouldered double-breasted white striped suit. Frocks shivered with ostrich feather and glistened with lamé. Some of the evening gowns, in those pastel shades and shimmering with a super-glossed satin effect, veered perilously close to a Miss Universe aesthetic, but for many wealthy young ladies across the world this collection will represent utter desirability.
In the four months up to this July $1.6 billion dollars worth of Ralph Lauren clothing were sold. In the country where cash is king - and currently extremely scarce - that represents a great deal of influence indeed.