Malawi gays stay underground

The billboard has no militant language, graphic pictures or cleverly obscure message -- just a group of neatly dressed Malawian activists politely urging respect for sexual minorities. But the sign along a busy road in the small African nation is a historic step after last year's explosive jailing and pardon of a couple who held the country's first same-sex wedding. The case drove many gays underground, but also ripped open taboos and rallied activists. "For me, I think it was an eye-opener, like they've pioneered for us to stand up, carry ourselves and move around and go about our business as usual," said "Taliro" about the arrested pair who drew a worldwide media storm. "That has brought us to the point where we can go out, do what we do, unlike in the past situation when it wasn't that conducive enough for people to go out and do their thing." But every step forward faces a hardline government, the threat of prison and backlash from a still fiercely conservative society. "Things are worse in terms of the government attitudes," said human rights lawyer Chrispine Sibande, one of the activists on the billboard. "But on a positive part, I think there have been increased debates in the country about talking about gay rights." Human rights groups say the case was a platform to collectively push for greater protection -- like winning a court order for the release of printed cloths preaching tolerance that were seized in May. They now want Malawi's gays to come forward, but the 14-year sentence and public humiliation of Tiwonge Chimbalanga and Steven Monjeza -- the only two people to have ever come out publicly -- drove many people underground. "It has been a challenge," said Gift Trapence, director of the Centre for the Development of People (CEDEP) which provides a safe space for gays. "They know that they can be arrested if they are visible." The centre, which once had HIV pamphlets on male sex confiscated as pornography, is currently doing a study to calculate the size of Malawi's homosexual population. The local scene is not unlike other African countries where homosexuality is illegal, said Trapence. "We don't have specific sites or places where you can meet. You don't have gay clubs, you don't have cruising sites, you don't have such kind of places." Taliro has played matchmaker to fix up a number of his friends, and told his family 10 years ago that he is gay. "For me it has really changed because now people can speak about it. From my own experience, like if I go clubbing, I know for sure I can be myself there in the club," the 28-year-old told AFP. But in Malawi, which outlawed sex between women in December, risks are never far. "You do gather and meet, discuss or have little parties, but it's always strictly invitation only. We just invite only people we know ourselves and their circle and maybe a few friends we know, but it's always a risky move." Taliro's parents sent him away for three years after he came out to them, and while things have improved at home and in society, life isn't easy. "Even with my friends, some of them haven't told their parents. They are already afraid of the situation and the society and the family -- how they are going to react about the whole thing. So it's not easy," said Taliro, who declined to reveal his real name. Gay-bashing goes to the top of the government with President Bingu wa Mutharika in May saying gays were worse than dogs, while recent anti-government protests that killed 19 people were dubbed 'gay parades' by the state broadcaster. It's a constant scapegoat used to buy sympathy from a homophobic society, says Undule Mwakasungula, Director of Centre for Human Rights and Rehabilitation. "Change is going to come, but I think it is not going to come now," he said. "What is coming out is there is a lack of general information. Change cannot come if people are ignorant." Politicians should try to understand before they start "speaking rubbish", said Taliro. "I remember one time they even said that we're worse than dogs and pigs, which is very very demeaning. It does hurt. Even being in public places and people talk about it, they even also say the same thing, and we just look at them and say, if you only knew."