Revolution in lilac lace

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 London - Caroline Kent Huishan Zhang drew inspiration from Chinese artist Sui Jiango's seminal Mao Suit series in his Autumn/Winter 2013 collection shown on Monday. In an aesthetic study of the contradictions and co-existence of modernity and tradition, he used this symbol of restriction and uniformity to explore revolutionary China. In an ever spiralling off-shoot of contrasts he also referenced modern artist Mondrian in a nod to the crucial 1960's period of radical pop-culture. You've got to be bold if you want to pull off cultural revolution in glittery lilac, and Zhang did it in style. Though the inspirations of Jianguo and Mondrian seem disparate, they share the common ground of clean and accurate lines. Swarovski crystals threaded a line from past to present over classic lace on bell-sleeve jackets and above-the-knee flared skirts. Cut with military precision, the result was delicate but robust. Low beehives and mod eyeliner anchored the look in a very wearable context. Originally from Quingdoa, China, Huishan spent his life in New Zealand, Paris and London, where he has been based since finishing his work at Dior. The designer was selected to join the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN scheme, and has been a member since 2012.